The Ice Cream Cone Has at Least Five Claimed Inventors and One Very Convenient Legend

US1032261 was granted to Frederick Bruckman in 1912 for a machine for rolling ice cream cones. It is one of several patents in the cone's tangled history, and it arrives long after the argument about who invented the thing had already started.

The popular story is fixed and charming. At the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition in St. Louis — the World's Fair — an ice cream vendor ran out of paper dishes on a hot day. A Syrian immigrant named Ernest Hamwi, selling a crisp waffle pastry called zalabis at the next stall, rolled one of his wafers into a cone, handed it over, and the ice cream cone was born.

It is a good story: immigrant ingenuity, a hot afternoon, a happy accident, an American icon. Versions of it are told at the fair's own historical exhibits.

The trouble with it

The trouble is that the cone predates the fair.

In 1903, a year before St. Louis, Italo Marchiony — an Italian immigrant selling ice cream from a pushcart in New York City — was granted a patent for a mold to make edible cups with sloping sides and a handle, produced in a hinged, waffle-iron-like device. He had reportedly been selling ice cream in edible pastry cups on the streets of New York since the 1890s, driven by a very practical problem: customers kept walking off with, or breaking, his glass serving dishes.

Earlier still, edible cones and rolled wafers served with ice cream appear in European cookbooks and illustrations going back into the nineteenth century. The idea of putting ice cream into something you could eat was not a bolt from the blue in 1904.

What likely did happen at St. Louis is that the cone met the American mass public. The fair drew roughly twenty million visitors, and multiple vendors there — Hamwi among several others who later claimed credit, including David Avayou and Abe Doumar — were selling ice cream in rolled waffles. The exposure turned a local curiosity into a national habit.

Why it stays contested

At least five people have been credited as the cone's inventor at various points, and the records genuinely conflict. Patents exist for molds and rolling machines from several inventors across a decade. Newspaper accounts from the fair are inconsistent. Family claims, understandably, are firm.

The honest summary is the one this archive keeps arriving at: popular objects rarely have a single inventor. They have a slow accumulation of people solving the same problem, one of whom happens to be standing in the right place when the public shows up.

The 1904 fair is not where the ice cream cone was invented. It is where it was discovered — by everybody at once, which is a different and in some ways more important event.

See the original

The full text and figures of US1032261 are on patents.us.